Before I get into my review, I want to give you some background. Seabourn is in the so-called “ultra-luxury” category (think Crystal, Silversea, Regent, etc.) of cruise lines. I know, I know. The term is dripping with elitism but it really is just an industry term which reflects the size of its ships. To be clear, the most expensive suites at sea are on Royal Caribbean and you will spent far more on Celebrity Retreat or Norwegian Haven than you would pay on most ultra-luxury lines.
Each of the big cruise lines owns an ultra-luxury line: MSC owns Explora Journeys; Royal Caribbean owns Silversea; Norwegian owns Regent Seven Sea and Carnival owns Seabourn. Each of the ultra-luxury lines, except Explora Journeys, were at one point were independently owned. Carnival’s acquisition and subsequent attempts to sell Seabourn have been controversial. That said, Carnival’s theme is the “fun boat” and Seabourn is absolutely an ultra-luxury take on that theme.
We had sailed Seabourn before in Greece. We had not even made it past the gangway when spouse dramatically turned around and snapped “I knew I would hate this boat!” He hasn’t wrong. The theme of Seabourn Encore was “deferred maintenance” and circus tent colors as décor. Can…you…stand…it? The famed Thomas Keller restaurant was a colossal disappointment and the food at most restaurants was inedible. Have you ever lost weight on a cruise ship? I have…
And yet, the passengers and crew were big fun. The cruise director jumped in the pool fully dressed. Champagne and caviar rained down like mana from heaven. Their excursions were some of the best we’d ever taken. Everything was a very bespoke experience. The suites, despite the circus colors (you need sunglasses at night), were massive. The bathrooms were beautiful. However, we weren’t disappointed to disembark.
After our experience, I dubbed Seabourn: Seaburp. So why would we rush back to take them on an expedition cruise? Seabourn has the two newest expedition ships. If you are going to the end of the known world, you do want a modern ship with stabilizers, Star Link, etc. So we both were reluctantly decided to give Seaburn Expeditions a try. I did make sure, repeatedly, that spouse knew that I would blame him for the remainder of his life if it sucked.
First, Seabourn meets you immediately outside of baggage claim at the Buenos Aires International Airport. That is helpful as you are coming off a 9 hour flight, at an international airport and have no idea where you are supposed to go. Within minutes, you were whisked away to a Lyft/Uber which took you to your hotel. The hotel was stunning and could easily have been in any European capital. Think old world gilt walls, marble floors, and European service. Immediately upon entering, Seabourn agents greeted you and walked you to their own check-in and hospitality suite.
The hospitality suite was white glove and had drinks and snacks but no welcome champagne which, I felt cheapened the otherwise high-end experience. Given that suites were not ready until 4pm, Seabourn had excursion offerings for guests. While I thought that was a nice touch, you had to pay for them. Expeditions are all-inclusive and so to nickel and dime like that, similar to the lack of a champagne welcome, seemed to cheapen the experience. Remember, guests are paying $10,000 to $25,000 per person for this type of cruise.
The next morning, Seabourn provided a wonderful breakfast and then took you by shuttle to the domestic airport to fly to Ushuaia. Seabourn agents stayed with us from the hotel lobby all the way to Ushuaia’s airport. To be clear, you could not get lost if you tried. Seabourn agents, like God and the internet, were everywhere. Ushuaia is an adorable, almost Bavarian looking city sitting at the base of snow-capped mountain ranges. Despite the ship not sailing until late that day, Seabourn offered no excursions and instead sent you directly to the ship.
Seabourn Pursuit is stunning. It is hunter green on the exterior and looks like a modern ski lodge inside. It was shocking that Pursuit and Encore were owned by the same line. We were in the Wintergarden Suite. There are only two on the ship and they are the largest suites available.
The Wintergarden suite was two stories and nearly 1,000 square feet. It was worth it to upgrade because expedition ships are very, very small. There isn’t a large gym, a library, a movie theater, a casino, shows, etc. So you spend a lot more time in your suite than you would normally. We LOVED being in our suite and often ate our meals there.
Despite how much we loved the Wintergarden suite, it did not come with any additional perks, which, again, we felt cheapened the experience. And the zodiacs were above our suite so we heard them being unloaded and loaded each day.
Crossing the Drake Passage takes two days (thus a total of four days there and back). Yes, social media influencers have videos that look terrifying. The truth is expedition ships have stabilizers so you feel very little. We were lucky as we largely had the “Drake Lake” rather than the “Drake Shake” but even on our “Drake shake” day, it was hardly noticeable. We were blessed with clear skies and sunny weather and so, a day before you get to Antarctica, you could see the outline of the mountains. It was a moment I will never forget. I obviously cannot promise the weather but the ship does check weather reports constantly to ensure passengers go to places with the most optimal weather.
Each day you have two excursions. One is land based and usually a hike and the other is a water excursion. Your expedition guide likely has a PhD in marine science or ornithology or some obscure scientific study. You go on excursions in small groups and so it is usually just about 10 to 30 people at any given time on foot and only a few zodiacs at a time go out in the water. Because of that, you hear nothing but nature: the cracking of ice, the sounds of seals snoring, etc. In between excursions you have mandatory briefings and lectures. To be honest, by 9pm most everyone was in bed as the day is exhausting.
The polar plunge was one excursion where the entire ship was excited. You could feel the almost electric current of excitement. Everyone, and I mean everyone, was in good spirits.
The food…well it was certainly an improvement on what we had on Encore but it still has a long way to go. I had some good meals but none that I would rank as one of the best at sea. The wine selection was also lacking. The dinner rose was Beach ($15.00 a bottle). Again, those little touches do cheapen the otherwise high-end experience.
It was the most diverse passenger mix I had ever seen which is a tribute to Seabourn. You had singles, multi-generational families, every race, age, nationality and creed imaginable. And everyone got on well.
The crew, and in particular, the cruise director, could teach a master class. They were fantastic.
The return home had the same ups and downs. We came into port in Ushuaia a day early but Seabourn didn’t have any excursions (this time they didn’t even have paid excursions) and were a bit disorganized at the Ushuaia airport (its tiny with zero signage as to which of the 6 gates you use). The food in the return flight to Buenos Aires was…well…
So would I sail with Seabourn Expeditions again? Yes, but I'd never pay Silversea prices for it.